Forming the Ken

I mounted the blank for the ken between centers and with my spindle roughing gouge I turned it round.  Once I was satisfied that the blank was parallel I turned a tenon on one end to match the dovetail of my chuck jaws. 

Fig 13 thumb

 

I then mounted the blank for the ken in my chuck and located it with the point of the same live center I used during the roughing steps to make sure the blank would run true.

The first thing I decided to do was turn the chuzara or middle dish.  With the blank still supported by the live center I began hollowing the dish with a spindle gouge (see image below). Once the basic dish shape was established I backed away the live center and refined the shape of the chuzara with a scraper just as I did the dishes on the sarado.  A light touch is necessary for this step as the work being done is over seven inches from the chuck. I checked the shape of the dish with my cardboard template. Once satisfied with the shape I sanded the chuzara. 

Fig 14 thumb

 

Laying Out the Ken

I installed the center with the golf ball and brought it to bear against the chuzara so that it would provide support for the spindle turning steps to follow.

The next step was to locate the major features on the ken.  Using the measured drawing I marked the location of the major diameters and features along the length of the ken. 

Fig 15 thumb

 

Turning the Ken

With calipers I used a parting tool to establish diameters at the chuzara and the suberi-dome (grip ridge) on the blank corresponding to the measured drawing. 

Fig 16 thumb Fig 17 thumb

 

Once these diameters were established it was just a matter of shaping the half coved area between the chuzara and what will become the suberi-dome. 

Fig 18 thumb

 

I used calipers and a parting tool to mark the important diameters at several locations along the ken in preparation for turning the suberi-dome.  It is important to not remove too much wood near the chuck to provide continued support for the turning operations farthest from the chuck.

It is necessary to create a long coved taper from the suberi-dome to the point where the sarado will seat. First I removed wood with my parting tool to establish the width of the seat for the sarado (left image below).  I then alternated between removing wood from the long curve between the seat for the sarado and the suberi-dome (right image below); whittling both areas closer to their finished size. 

Fig 19 thumb Fig 20 thumb

 

After removing most of the bulk with a parting tool I carefully sized the area where the sarado will jam fit on the ken using a small ignition wrench as a gauge. 

Fig 21 thumb

 

Note: I learned through trial and error that it was best to leave the section of the ken where the sarado was to jam fit a little fat and then hand sand to the proper diameter so the sarado would fit snugly on the ken at the specified distance from the tip of the kensaki.

Once I was satisfied with the diameter I completed the tapered end of the kensaki using a spindle gouge to remove the bulk of the waste and finished the taper of the kensaki with a Hunter Osprey tool (left image below). Lastly I parted off the ken with a spindle gouge (right image). 

Fig 22 thumb Fig 23 thumb

 

As mentioned earlier final sanding on the ken was done off the lathe by sanding with the grain to achieve a smooth finish and a good fit of the sarado.

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Saturday the 22nd. Thanks for visiting Woodturners Unlimited.